As diverse as the beauty industry seems at face value, marginalized entrepreneurs and employees have always had to fight for a seat at the table. This reality is becoming even more apparent during the first weeks of the new presidential administration, during which Trump imposed an executive order to purge federal departments of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) programs.
Since then, companies en masse have been emboldened to roll back or completely eliminate their DEI initiatives, including brands like Walmart, Amazon, and Target. On Jan. 24, days after the order, Target announced that it was concluding its three-year DEI goals and its Racial Equity Action and Change initiatives, while Amazon and Walmart dialed back their own efforts. Not only are these retailers host to a slew of BIPOC-owned brands like The Lip Bar, Fenty Beauty, and Black Girl Sunscreen, but they also have employees of all different backgrounds, from Black and Latine people to those in the LGBTQIA+ community. Since it’s already been established that targeting more diverse consumers is good for business, it’s disheartening to see companies make moves that directly hurt the businesses that serve them — especially as a Black woman.
It’s not all bad news. Amid the anti-DEI conversation, there are some brands standing firm on the commitment to equality. E.l.f. Cosmetics, for example, is one of only two publicly traded companies with an executive board of 78 percent women and 44 percent people of color. The brand recently doubled down on its inclusive “So Many Dicks” campaign that highlighted the gender disparity. “There’s nothing wrong with being Richard, Rick, or Dick, but we wanted to shine a light on ‘let’s give other people a chance’ because we’ve seen the benefits in our own business,” CEO Tarang Amin said in a press release.
Other brands like Lush have expressed solidarity with DEI initiatives, even temporarily renaming its Thermal Waves, Sakura, and American Cream bath bombs to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion. But in giving these brands their flowers, it’s important to understand that their stances on DEI should be the industry standard, not a rarity.
While it’s gratifying to see support, minority business owners, workers, and creators are looking for these words to come to life regularly — and without an expiration date. That means putting your money where your mouth is, with diverse models, inclusive social media marketing, extensive shade ranges, and a lasting commitment to hiring (and promoting) all races and backgrounds in corporate beauty positions.
I’m a Black woman in beauty, and I believe brands should be doing more — and I’m not just talking about creating “extended” shade ranges. (Fenty Beauty has been there, done that, and you really shouldn’t expect anything less from a Black founder.) Companies should be amplifying my community, not just through a statement or social media post. What about campaigns that contain more than one Black model who’s a size two and light-skinned? Or Black brands placed on every shelf rather than in just one section for the sake of Black History Month or Juneteenth? I want to see the different women in my family and friend groups shop for products that actually work for them, not ones they settle for because there are no other options. I want to be able to enter a Target beauty section or Sephora and finally see myself fully represented, not patronized. After all, according to the McKinsey Institute for Black Economic Mobility, Black women are responsible for 11.1 percent of total beauty spending, so representation is long overdue.
Although the reality of brands surrendering to the call for less diversity has left many (myself included) feeling disheartened, it isn’t exactly surprising. With the 2020 racial reckonings calling for more support of Black-owned businesses, many retailers took the Fifteen Percent Pledge — a commitment to dedicate 15 percent of shelf space to Black businesses. However, companies only took this stance to appease the social media backlash they were getting during that time, which means only one thing: being diverse wasn’t a goal from the beginning.
The Lip Bar’s founder, Melissa Butler, who has amassed major success by having Target as a stockist, shared her thoughts on Instagram in response to the recent news. “I always thought the 2020 commitments were a farce, anything that is forced is a farce,” she said. She also emphasized that many of the brands that launched as a result of these pledges didn’t perform well, and it’s a well-proven fact that money is a driving force in America. While countless pledges have been made to support smaller businesses, if corporations don’t see a substantial profit, they’re going to pull the plug, and it’s a shame that many minority-owned companies pay the price. (We’ve reached out to Target for comment and will update this story when we hear back.)
The point is: diversity, equity, and inclusion should not be a trend. Beauty is universal, and all skin colors, races, and backgrounds should be prioritized and valued. Although the new administration is pushing it, companies should assess their practices and not only commit but take substantive action. Achieving DEI in beauty isn’t about quota fulfillment; it’s about creating a safe environment where everyone can bask in their beauty without feeling forgotten or tokenized — and that shouldn’t be taken away, especially at the hands of a Richard, Rick, or Dick.
Naomi Parris is a New York-based fashion and beauty writer with over seven years of experience. She served as an editorial operations associate at PS, specializing in all things fashion. Her work has also been seen in Elle, Essence Girls United, Bustle, and Elite Daily. Obsessed with telling stories that merge fashion and culture, her areas of expertise include Fashion Week coverage, daily news, high-profile interviews, shopping roundups, and beauty stories.